©valss|Office de Tourisme des Pyrénées cathares

Rupestral Church of Vals

Extraordinary and mysterious

Due to major restoration work, the church in Vals is closed until 2024. The interior of the church is not accessible.

Near Mirepoix, the small village of Vals hides a treasure: the three-level semi-Rupestral church, known for its Romanesque frescoes of great historical and artistic interest. Set into the rock, this church is a true gem of Pyrenean Romanesque art.

Léo

I enter a loophole: twenty or so steps up a stone staircase and discover a three-level sanctuary.
Surprised, I move forward and remain in ecstasy before the preciously guarded frescoes, which have been there since the 11th century: fresco of the Annunciation, fresco of the Nativity, the apostles Saint Peter and Saint Andrew....
A surprising church that hides its jewels well.

A church in the rock

Here, 3,000 years of history beckon. But it wasn’t until the 19th century that Abbé Durand discovered this troglodyte church and its exceptional frescoes. It was listed as a historic monument in 1910.

Traces of the church date back to the 11th century, and it has undergone numerous renovations and extensions over the centuries, enabling it to survive to the present day.

The originality of this church lies in its three-level construction: the crypt, then the apse, and finally the upper part which serves as the nave, with its beautiful tower dedicated to the archangel St. Michael.

A showcase for a rare and precious jewel…

Frescoes

Hidden in the rock

Due to major restoration work, the church in Vals is closed until 2024. The interior of the church is not accessible.

It all starts with the entrance to the church… It’s through a crack between two Poudingue rocks. The mystery begins! You enter through this narrow passage into the crypt.

The crypt is built into the rock. This is the oldest part of the building. The walls are thick and the light barely filters through fine openings, contributing to the atmosphere of mystery and contemplation in this unusual chapel.

A few steps lead up to the frescoes. For the exceptional character of this cave church is not only due to its troglodyte appearance! Here, your eyes are drawn to a treasure that has been preserved since the 12th century: superb Romanesque frescoes of Catalan origin. They have affinities with those of neighboring Spanish Catalonia. They illustrate three periods in the life of Jesus, from his birth to the Last Judgment.

Thanks to the miracle of the restoration campaigns, the colors of the frescoes are almost as they were in their early days… A chance to admire these frescoes in their original setting, in the contemplative atmosphere of the place for which they were designed, and not in the cold context of a museum…

On the upper level is the modern church. From here, you can access a terrace for a commanding view of the village and surrounding area.